Routesetting, Speed Climbing, and why the Japanese are so good at climbing

Routesetting, Speed Climbing, and why the Japanese are so good at climbing

Welcome to Behind The Wall, a weekly newsletter published every Saturday.

Each week, I highlight the favourite things I’ve watched, read and listened to from the world of indoor and competition climbing. I also track where you can buy competition tickets during the World Cup season.

This week, we got two more Japan-centric videos from Magnus Mitdbø and Emil Abrahamsson, the third IFSC Lounge episode with Matt Groom and Alex Honold, and Catalyst Climbing look at breaking the pure longest dyno record with Riki Schwark.

New speed climbing content also dropped this week. Speed climbing coaches Albert Ok (USA) and Peter Schnabel (Germany) talked about the recent competitions and the first hold of the route in their new podcast, 20 Holds. German speed climbing athlete Sebastian Lucke shares a behind-the-scenes look at his experiences from the European Speed Cup in Mezzolombardo, Italy.

We also got a dose of routesetting content. EpicTV went behind the scenes at Studio Bloc Masters 2024 to see how the qualification round is set. Climbing Curated interviewed Palmer Larsen, USA competitor and head coach of the Momentum Climbing Team in Salt Lake City. Holly Chen interviews her boss, Buck Yedor, Head of Routesetting for The Spot gyms in Colorado.

I know there is lots of great content that I don’t know about. Let me know at, and I’ll give you a shout-out if I feature it.

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  • 20 Holds: Hold 1. In the first episode of their new podcast, Speed Climbing coaches Albert Ok and Peter Schnabel talk about the Shanghai OQS, Mezzolombardo European Speed Cup, and Hold 1.
  • Bless Its Brushless Heart with Holly Chen and Buck Yedor. Learn about how Yedor manages a multisite routesetting team across the Spot gyms in Colorado. He talks about what goes into supporting route setters’ development and maintaining consistency across a group of gyms.
  • Climbing Curated Episode 24 with Palmer Larsen. Palmer Larsen talks about how he copes with the difficulties of setting as a taller climber, the difference between commercial and competition settings, and the benefits of setting as a coach.

International Climbing Competition Tickets

The competition season has started, so here is the rundown of where you can find World Cup and OQS tickets.

That’s a Wrap

I hope you enjoyed this edition of Behind the Wall. Let me know what you think at or DM me on Instagram.

See you next week!

P.S. Please share with anyone you think would enjoy reading Behind The Wall.

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