Hey there,
This is the first of three posts about last year, reflecting on 2025. In this post, I look back at the three competitions I attended and what I learned at each one.
Next week I'll take a look at how the new 2025 points system performed. The week after, I'll share what made me glad, mad, and sad about 2025 and what I'm looking forward to most in 2026.
Back in 2024, I went to my first climbing competition as media in Budapest for the Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) event. It was run by the local Olympic Committee, and it was an extremely well-run event. Athletes had to filter past the press in the mixed zone, and many were happy to talk. It was easy to interact with them as someone new to covering competitions in person. It was also obvious where to go and where I could (and could not) go.
In 2025, I went to two World Cups and the World Championship as accredited media, and it was a different experience. Here are the things I learned at each of them.
Innsbruck was a good introduction to World Cups for me after the rigidity of the OQS event. The event is well organised, with barriers everywhere. There was space for the press, and the mixed zone behind the wall allowed me to talk to athletes with some muffling of the music blaring in the background.
I was reminded how small climbing is as a sport. Apart from the legion of photographers, and IFSC staff and contractors, Slovenian radio and TV (who were there for Janja's return to competition) and I made up the independent press. Everyone was really welcoming, and the press room was well stocked with start lists, snacks, and power cords everywhere, which helps when you're working until they kick you out at 11pm.
And, most importantly, they had coffee.
At the event I interviewed both Janja Garnbret and Toby Roberts and recorded them. I felt so awkward and made every mistake in the book, including hitting my focus button to manual and recording out of focus. I never used the footage from either interview, but I learned so much from my fluffed attempts.
Chamonix was a different experience.
It was a lot of flexible and free-flowing. The place to grab athletes was the gangway where they came in and out of isolation, which in qualifications was right in front of the photographers and not the media, so you couldn't grab anyone.
Marco, the Digital Manager from the IFSC, got the setup adjusted so media (aka me) could grab people to speak to, which helped a lot, but there still wasn't a great place away from the music to talk and record.
The press room was big with plenty of space, with many of the French magazines attending and covering the event. Epic TV were also there for their “local comp.” There wasn't any coffee, though.
I recorded and published my first Instagram reels in Chamonix, including a short interview with Anja Kohler, who became the first Brazilian woman to reach an able-bodied Lead World Cup semi-final in 19 years. I had learned from my experience in Innsbruck to double-check everything and it came out much better. Another step in the right direction.
Both finals in Chamonix were special. Even for Speed, a big crowd turned out. For Lead, the crowd spilled out beyond Place du Mont-Blanc. The experience of hearing 18,500 people cheering on climbers is one I'll never regret.
Seoul was my first ever trip to Asia and the first really long event. The World Championships hit a bit differently.
I was planning to cover both Para Climbing and able-bodied, so I had 9 days of competition to cover. I lost my voice on day one after Matt interviewed me for the World Climbing Club, which put paid to any podcasting or video recording throughout the event. I did manage to recover my voice by the time we went indoors for the semi-finals and finals.
I rang myself very thin in Seoul. What could work for the short World Cups in Innsbruck and Chamonix took a bigger toll over nine days. I am a natural night owl (this is being written late at night), and I would end up working until 2 am or so. I managed to record most of my chats over the week, and I finally felt like I belonged.
I love going to climbing competitions and feel so energised by them despite the pressure and long days. I feel like I can be myself, and it reminds me how great the climbing community is.
This year, I am planning to attend the Innsbruck (arriving in time for Para Climbing and able-bodied climbing this time), Chamonix, and Koper World Climbing Series events this year.
My first event of the year is in two weeks as I head to Manchester to cover the British Bouldering Championship. Then the Lead Championship in February, the PCL event in London (hopefully), and the last CWIF event in Sheffield to round off my spring.
What competitions are you looking to go to this year? Reply to this email to let me know.
News
- The Pro Climbing League has announced that Annie Sanders, Mejdi Schalck, Yannick Flohé, and Tomoa Narasaki will be competing at the first event in London. They join Erin McNeice and Olympic champions Janja Garnbret and Toby Roberts.
There will be 7 men and 7 women invited to the event and 1 man and 1 woman wildcard that qualifies through two qualifier events in February held by The Font Wandsworth. The first round will be held on February 7th and the seed round on February 27th, the day before the first event in London. - Jakob Schubert has announced his intention to qualify for the Olympic Games in Los Angeles 2028.
- Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi from Indonesia is the first woman to post a video showing a sub-6-second time. The video is only from training, so it isn't a world record, but it is exciting to see.
- Planet Grimpe reports on the failures of the FFME handling of an alleged sexual assault between two French athletes during a World Cup event in the summer of 2024.
- World Climbing announced the last four events of the World Climbing Series in China on Friday. This is the fourth time China has held four IFSC/World Climbing Series events in a season. The last three times were in 2016, 2017, and 2018.
China doesn't hold the record for the most number of world cups (international competitions or whatever we are calling UIAA/IFSC/World Climbing Series events) hosted by a country in a season. That is held by Italy, which hosted seven world cups in 2002 and again in 2003. - World Climbing has confirmed they are investigating adding a further World Climbing Para Series event, taking the number to five events. Currently, the World Climbing Para Series will go to Salt Lake City (USA), Innsbruck (Austria), Laval (France), and Gunsan (South Korea).
Media
Continuing the 2025 review theme, here are some of my favourite pieces from the past year. There will be more next week.
- The two sides of Oriane Bertone: Last year we got to see two sides of Oriane Bertone through two different pieces of media. The first (in French with English subtitles) was a documentary from her father's and coaches' perspectives. The second, an interview with Planet Grimpe (in French), was about the depression she felt after the Olympics before her 2025 season started.
- That's Not Real Climbing Podcast by Jinni Xia: The best-named climbing podcast went from strength to strength last year. My favourite episodes were with Sagi Damti (German bouldering coach and Sport Manager for PCL) and Carl McNeice (Erin's dad).
- The World Climbing Club: Matt Groom and the IFSC/World Climbing (now the name makes more sense 😛) put a lot more effort into the World Climbing Club this year, and the quality of it shows. My favourite episode was with Lučka Rakovec talking about her recovery from thyroid cancer, which was deeply moving.
- Jonathan Sin Climbing YouTube Channel: Jonathan's YouTube channel has become brimming with creative indoor content and is one of the best indoor climbing channels now. His episodes in B-Pump with Yoshiyuka Ogataand Sohta Amagasa were highlights of the year for me. His new series of videos about climbing in Japan is also a must-watch.
Competition Tickets
I've updated the list to include most of the World Climbing Para and abled-bodied events below. I will continue to add links to where to buy tickets as they become available.
Let me know if there are any other events you think should be featured.
Dockmasters 2026
When: 17–18 January 2026
Where: Utrecht, The Netherlands
Disciplines: Boulder
Where to buy tickets: You can buy tickets from the Dockmasters' website. Spectator tickets are sold out. You can still buy tickets to take part in the Recreational competition.
Live Stream: The final will be live streamed on the Boulderhal Energiehaven - Bouldering gym YouTube Channel. Pete Woods and Matt Groom will be commentating on the live stream.
British Boulder Championships
When: 24–25 January 2026
Where: Manchester, UK
Disciplines: Boulder
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: The event is usually live streamed on YouTube on BMC TV.
British Lead Championships
When: 21–22 February 2026
Where: Manchester, UK
Disciplines: Lead
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: The event is usually live streamed on YouTube on BMC TV.
Pro Climbing League - London
When: 28 February 2026
Where: Magazine London, UK
Disciplines: Boulder (PCL format)
Where to buy tickets: All 2300 tickets are sold out.
Live Stream: The event will be streamed live on Red Bull TV.
The (final) Rab CWIF 2026
When: 21–22 March 2026
Where: The Climbing Works, Sheffield, UK
Disciplines: Boulder
Where to buy tickets: To be announced. Usually available from early February to compete and watch. This will be the last CWIF.
Live Stream: The semi-final and finals will be live streamed on YouTube on the Climbing Works YouTube channel.
World Climbing Series Keqiao 2026
When: 1–3 May 2026
Where: Keqiao, China
Disciplines: Boulder
Where to buy tickets: Tickets will be available locally.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026
When: 8–10 May 2026
Where: Wujiang, China
Disciplines: Lead and Speed
Where to buy tickets: Tickets will be available locally.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Para Series Salt Lake City 2026
When: 15–16 May 2026
Where: Salt Lake City, USA
Disciplines: Lead
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: Available on the World Climbing YouTube page.
World Climbing Series Bern 2026
When: 22–24 May 2026
Where: Bern, Switzerland
Disciplines: Boulder
Where to buy tickets: You can buy tickets here.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Series Madrid 2026
When: 28–31 May 2026
Where: Madrid, Spain
Disciplines: Boulder and Speed
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Series Prague 2026
When: 3–7 June 2026
Where: Prague, Czechia
Disciplines: Boulder and Lead
Where to buy tickets: You can buy tickets here.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Para Series Innsbruck 2026
When: 15–16 June 2026
Where: Innsbruck, Austria
Disciplines: Lead
Where to buy tickets: The event is usually free to attend for both qualifications and finals.
Live Stream: Available on the World Climbing YouTube page.
World Climbing Series Innsbruck 2026
When: 17–21 June 2026
Where: Innsbruck, Austria
Disciplines: Boulder and Lead
Where to buy tickets: You can buy tickets here. Last year they were made available in April and sold out fast.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Series Krakow 2026
When: 3–5 July 2026
Where: Krakow, Poland
Disciplines: Speed
Where to buy tickets: Free to watch.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Series Chamonix 2026
When: 10–12 July 2026
Where: Chamonix, France
Disciplines: Lead and Speed
Where to buy tickets: Free to watch, though find a place to sit early as it get packed.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Europe Series Championship Barcelona 2026
When: 17–19 July 2026
Where: Barcelona, Spain
Disciplines: Boulder
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Youth Championship Arco 2026
When: 18–25 July 2026
Where: Arco, Italy
Disciplines: Boulder, Lead, and Speed
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Europe Championship Laval 2026
When: 28–30 August 2026
Where: Laval, France
Disciplines: Lead and Speed
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: Will be available on the World Climbing Europe YouTube page.
World Climbing Para Series Laval 2026
When: 28–29 August 2026
Where: Laval, France
Disciplines: Lead
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: Available on the World Climbing YouTube page.
World Climbing Series Koper 2026
When: 4–5 September 2026
Where: Koper, Slovenia
Disciplines: Lead
Where to buy tickets: You wll be able to buy tickets here later in the year.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Series Guiyang 2026
When: 11–13 September 2026
Where: Guiyang, China
Disciplines: Speed
Where to buy tickets: You will be able to buy tickets locally.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Series Chongqing 2026
When: 18–20 September 2026
Where: Chongqing, China
Disciplines: Speed
Where to buy tickets: You will be able to buy tickets locally.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
Asian Games Aichi-Nagoya 2026
When: 19 September–4 October 2026
Where: Nagoya, Japan
Disciplines: Lead, Speed, and Boulder
Where to buy tickets: TBC.
Live Stream: TBC.
World Climbing Series Salt Lake City 2026
When: 16–18 October 2026
Where: Salt Lake City, USA
Disciplines: Boulder
Where to buy tickets: TBC.
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Series Santiago 2026
When: 23–25 October 2026
Where: Santiago, Chile
Disciplines: Lead and Speed
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: Available on TV and the World Climbing YouTube page, subject to geographical restrictions.
World Climbing Para Series Gunsan 2026
When: 30 October –1 November 2026
Where: Gunsan, South Korea
Disciplines: Lead
Where to buy tickets: TBC
Live Stream: Available on the World Climbing YouTube page.
LA2028 Olympic Games
When: 14–29 July 2028
Where: LA, USA
Where to buy tickets: Registration for the first ticket draw opens on January 14.