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Heatmap of OQS qualified athletes per country and discipline which shows how dominate France, Italy, China, Germany, Japan and South Korea are. France is sending 14 athletes, Italy 12 and China, Germany, Japan and South Korea 10
© Inside Climbing

Who Will Be Competing for Climbing in the Olympic Qualifier Series?

On December 18th, the IFSC announced the list of athletes who will be competing in the Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) for Sport Climbing this year in Shanghai and Budapest.

The list of athletes competing at the OQS was determined by the IFSC World Ranking in Boulder&Lead and Speed from various selection events throughout 2023, including the World Cups, World Championship and Continental Qualifiers.

The list of athletes also includes the highest-placed athlete guided by the following principles:

  1. France, the 2024 Olympics host nation
  2. China and Hungary, each of the OQS host nations when possible,
  3. Each continent
  4. Any of the identified Universality countries.

This list is subject to a cap of 4 athletes per country, discipline and gender. If a country has already filled the maximum quota of two places, they cannot send any athletes to the OQS.

There are 32 athletes per gender competing in Speed and 48 per gender in combined Boulder&Lead.

Analysis

  • Two countries have filled their quotas already.
    1. No USA or Japanese men will compete at the OQS in Boulder&Lead as both countries have filled their spots after the World Championship and Continental Qualifiers. Colin Duffy and Jesse Gruper qualified for the USA. Tomoa Narasaki and Sorato Anraku qualified for Japan.
    2. No women from the USA will compete in Speed at the OQS after Emma Hunt and Piper Kelly qualified for the Olympics.
  • France will send the most athletes to the OQS with 14 athletes. Italy will send 12 athletes, while China, Germany, Japan and South Korea will all send 10 athletes.
  • Nimród Sebestyén Tusnády is the only Hungarian athlete to compete in the series. He will compete in Boulder&Lead.
  • Tegwan Oates from South Africa is the only athlete to qualify in Speed and Boulder&Lead for the event. She places above Rauen Krohn, who placed second at the African Qualifier in Boulder&Lead, because Tegwan earned more ranking points at the World Cups in Innsbruck, Villars and Chamonix, the World Championship and the African Qualifier, earning her 23.3 points in Speed and 39 in Boulder&Lead.
  • Svana Bjarnason is the only athlete to qualify for the OQS through the Universality pathway for Iceland.
Heatmap of OQS qualified athletes per country and discipline which shows how dominate France, Italy, China, Germany, Japan and South Korea are. France is sending 14 athletes, Italy 12 and China, Germany, Japan and South Korea 10
© Inside Climbing

Favourites for the Olympic Tickets

Based on the ranking, the following athletes are favourites to reach the Olympics based on the athlete ranking and country cap of two athletes per country. For Speed, there are 5 tickets and 10 for Boulder&Lead per gender.

There are also the host and Universality tickets that need allocating.

Suppose a French athlete has already won a ticket through another avenue. Then, the ticket will be reassigned to the next highest-place athlete. Any athlete from a Universality country must be placed in the top 36 to qualify for the Olympics through the University pathway. Svana Bjarnason, competing for Iceland in Boulder&Lead, is the only athlete this applies to. For all other disciplines, the ticket will be reassigned. If Bjarnason is not in the top 36, then the Universality ticket for Boulder&Lead Women will also be reassigned.

Men Speed

  1. Peng Wu (China)
  2. Leonardo Veddriq (Indonesia)
  3. Rishat Khabullin (Kazakhstan)
  4. Jun Yasukawa (Japan)
  5. Ryo Omasa (Japan)
  6. Euchael Shin (South Korea) - Host ticket reassigned as Bassa Mawem (France) has already qualified.
  7. John Brosler (USA) - Universality ticket reassigned

Women Speed

  1. Natalia Kalucka (Poland)
  2. Rajiah Sallsabillah (Indonesia)
  3. Di Niu (China)
  4. Jimin Jeong (South Korea)
  5. Capucine Viglione (France)
  6. Beatrice Colli (Italy) - Host ticket reassigned if Viglione qualifies in the top 5
  7. Giulia Randi (Italy) - Universality ticket reassigned

Men Boulder&Lead

  1. Mejdi Schlack (France)
  2. Dohyun Lee (South Korea)
  3. Alexander Megos (Germany)
  4. Adam Ondra (Czechia)
  5. Samn Avezou (France)
  6. Yannick Flohé (Germany)
  7. Sascha Lehman (Switzerland)
  8. Alberto Ginés López (Spain)
  9. Jongwon Chon (South Korea)
  10. Hannes Van Duysen (Belgium)
  11. Yufei Pan (China) - Host ticket reassigned
  12. Simon Lorenzi (Belgium) - Universality ticket reassigned

Women Boulder&Lead

  1. Brooke Raboutou (USA)
  2. Miho Nonaka (Japan)
  3. Chaehyun Seo (South Korea)
  4. Jain Kim (South Korea)
  5. Vita Lukan (Slovenia)
  6. Hélène Janicot (France)
  7. Ayala Kerem (Israel)
  8. Hannah Meul (Germany)
  9. Stasa Gejo (Serbia)
  10. Molly Thompson-Smith (Great Britain)
  11. Laura Rogora (Italy) - Host ticket reassigned
  12. Zhilu Luo (China) - Universality ticket will be reassigned if Svana Bjarnason (ISL) does not finish in the top 36.

Full list of Athletes

Below is the full list of athletes from each discipline, split by country.

Women Speed

Australia

  • Grace Crowley, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Oceania);

China

  • Di Niu, according to principle #2 (Highest-ranked athlete from China);
  • Shaoqin Zhang
  • Yafei Zhou
  • Shengyan Wang

Ecuador

  • Andrea Rojas, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Pan American);

Spain

  • Leslie Adriana Romero Pérez
  • Carla Martínez Vidal

France

  • Victoire Andrier
  • Lison Gautron
  • Manon Lebon
  • Capucine Viglione, according to principle #1 (Highest-ranked athlete from the host Olympic nation);

Germany

  • Franziska Ritter

Japan

  • Ai Takeuchi
  • Fumika Kawakami
  • Karin Hayashi
  • Natsumi Hayashi

Kazakstan

  • Tamara Ulzhabayeva

South Korea

  • Jimin Jeong
  • Hanareum Sung
  • Heeju Noh

Indonesia

  • Nurul Iqmah
  • Rajiah Sallsabillah, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Asia);
  • Narda Mutia Amanda

Iran

  • Mahya Darabian

Italy

  • Beatrice Colli
  • Giulia Randi

Poland

  • Natalia Kalucka, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Europe)
  • Aleksandra Kalucka
  • Patrycja Chudziak
  • Anna Brozek

South Africa

  • Tegwen Oates, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Africa)

Men Speed

Australia

  • Hayden Barton, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Oceania)

China

  • Peng Wu, according to principles #2 And #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from China & Asia)
  • Xinshang Wang
  • Liang Zhang
  • Jianguo Long

Ecuador

  • Carlos Granja
  • Isaac Estevez

Spain

  • Erik Noya Cardona

France

  • Pierre Rebreyend, according to principle #1 (Highest-ranked athlete from France)
  • Guillaume Moro

Germany

  • Leander Carmanns
  • Sebastian Lucke

Japan

  • Ryo Omasa
  • Jun Yasukawa

Kazakstan

  • Rishat Khaibullin
  • Amir Maimuratov

South Korea

  • Euncheol Shin
  • Yongjun Jung

Indonesia

  • Veddriq Leonardo
  • Kiromal Katibin
  • Aspar Aspar
  • Raharjati Nursamsa

Iran

  • Reza Alipour Shenazandifard

Italy

  • Ludovico Fossali, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Europe)
  • Gian Luca Zodda
  • Alessandro Boulos

Poland

  • Marcin Dzienski

Ukraine

  • Yaroslav Tkach
  • Hryhorii Ilchyshyn

Usa

  • John Brosler, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Pan America)
  • Zach Hammer
  • Noah Bratschi

Women Boulder&Lead

Argentina

  • Valentina Aguado

Australia

  • Maya Stasiuk, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Oceania)

Austria

  • Franziska Sterrer

Belgium

  • Chloe Caulier

Bulgaria

  • Aleksandra Totkova

Canada

  • Alannah Yip

China

  • Luo Zhilu, according to principle #2 (Highest-ranked athlete from China)

Czechia

  • Eliska Adamovska
  • Michaela Smetanova

France

  • Hélène Janicot, according to principle #1 (Highest-ranked athlete from France)
  • Manon Hily
  • Fanny Gibert
  • Zélia Avezou

Great Britain

  • Molly Thompson-Smith
  • Erin Mcniece

Germany

  • Hannah Meul
  • Lucia Dörffel
  • Roxana Wienand
  • Sandra Hopfensitz

Iceland

  • Svana Bjarnason, according to principle #4 (Highest-ranked athlete from a Universality country)

Iran

  • Elnaz Rekabi

Israel

  • Ayala Kerem
  • Noa Shiran

Italy

  • Laura Rogora
  • Camilla Moroni
  • Giorgia Tesio

Japan

  • Miho Nonaka, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Asia)
  • Futaba Ito
  • Ryu Nakagawa
  • Nonoha Kume

South Korea

  • Chaehyun Seo
  • Jain Kim
  • Sol Sa
  • Yejoo Seo

Netherlands

  • Lynn Van Der Meer

Serbia

  • Stasa Gejo

Slovenia

  • Vita Lukan, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Europe)
  • Mia Krampl
  • Sara Copar
  • Lucka Rakovec

Switzerland

  • Petra Klingler

Slovakia

  • Martina Buršíková

South Africa

  • Tegwen Oates, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Africa)

Ukraine

  • Ievgeniia Kazbekova

Usa

  • Brooke Raboutou, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Pan America)
  • Anastasia Sanders
  • Kyra Condie
  • Kylie Cullen

Men Boulder&Lead

Australia

  • Dylan Parks, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Oceania)

Austria

  • Nicolai Uznik
  • Jan-Luca Posch
  • Stefan Scherz

Belgium

  • Hannes Van Duysen
  • Simon Lorenzi
  • Nicolas Collin

Bulgaria

  • Nikolay Rusev

Canada

  • Sean Mccoll, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Pan America)
  • Oscar Baudrand

China

  • Yufei Pan, according to principle #2 (Highest-ranked athlete from China)

Czechia

  • Adam Ondra
  • Martin Stranik

Spain

  • Alberto Ginés López

France

  • Mejdi Schalck, according to principles #1 and #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from France and Europe)
  • Paul Jenft
  • Sam Avezou
  • Mickael Mawem

Great Britain

  • Hamish Mcarthur
  • Maximilian Milne
  • Jack Macdougall
  • James Pope

Germany

  • Alexander Megos
  • Yannick Nagel
  • Yannick Flohé

Indonesia

  • Ravianto Ramadhan
  • Raviandi Ramadhan

Italy

  • Stefano Ghisolfi
  • Marcello Bombardi
  • Filip Schenk
  • Giorgio Tomatis

Israel

  • Nimrod Marcus
  • Alex Khazanov
  • Yuval Shemla
  • Geva Levin

Hungary

  • Nimród Sebestyén Tusnády, according to principle #2 (Highest-ranked athlete from Hungary)

South Korea

  • Dohyun Lee, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Asia)
  • Jongwon Chon
  • Yunchan Song

Latvia

  • Edvards Gruzitis

Slovenia

  • Luka Potocar
  • Anze Peharc
  • Martin Bergant
  • Zan Lovenjak Sudar

Switzerland

  • Sascha Lehmann
  • Jonas Utelli

Sweden

  • Hannes Puman

South Africa

  • Christopher Cosser, according to principle #3 (Highest-ranked athlete from Africa)